Chapter Five Shanghai

    

    

     

   

 I think you can click on these photos for a better view.  Try it.

 

  Nihao  (Hello, how are you?)

 

Two days of the tour are dedicated to travel to and from the United States.  It’s amazing how all 35 of us were able to follow directions, get on the correct flights and end up at the same place and same time.  We arrived in Shanghai with a full day ahead to see the city.  We were greeted by a flag bearing tour guide after being properly identified with our orange luggage tags and orange badges on our proud chests.  During theride to our hotel, Jo, the tour director, gave us a rundown on how we needed to gather in the lobby of the Hotel for distribution of our room assignments. We were free to take some time to take a quick shower and unpack a few things but were on a schedule from that moment on ‘till the end of the tour.  A bus would be waiting at the front door for our first rendezvous of Shanghai and “be prompt”.  The bus ride from the airport to the hotel was an excellent introduction as to how China is changing.  It’s a huge city with huge buildings, miles of condos that look alike disbursed between scenes of old China, side streets that still have street sellers, red Chinese lanterns strung about, curvy slanted tiled roofs over some store fonts, and lots of green; all this is a backdrop to the hustle and bustle that one would expect in a large city.  The expensive condos and office buildings are each a creature unto themselves.  They are immensely tall and unusual looking.  This was pretty much the same in Beijing too.  There is construction going on everywhere throughout the city, especially on coastlines and equally in every city that we encountered no matter how remote the area.   The national bird is the “construction crane”. 

 

Over the last eight years or so I’ve heard that there’s a cement shortage and that China was the cause.  Construction hasn’t stopped for the last ten years.  Everybody wants to own a condo.  They’re even talking about flipping the properties.  That will work for a long time in order to meet the pent up demand.  China owns all the land under everyone’s property.  When one buys a condo they pay a one-time tax.  There are some special accommodations for farmers, many of whom have family owned property that goes back for centuries.  Farmers are constantly being displaced either for modernization or for what’s going on with dam building.  More about that later.  In Shanghai some rich people own villas, large homes away from the city, same in Beijing, none in the city proper except for a pocket of old neighborhoods here and there.  The other rich people live in these humongous modern buildings, one either prettier or uglier than the other depending on your perspective. Shanghai is an ancient port where years ago people were promised jobs and better lives only to be sold away as workers, thus the word “shanghaied”.  I’m not going to remember all the stories, but another that comes to mind is gunpowder.  Gunpowder was invented from the powder they used for fireworks centuries before it was thought to be used for weapons.  Powder for guns was not a Chinese intention or invention.  The West thought that up. 

 

Shanghai has a waterfront that is similar to Navy Pier in Chicago and other cities in the States.  It’s a lively place for tourists and people watching.  Since this was one of our first stops after being delivered to our hotel I quickly learned that Western tourists are an attraction to these beautiful tan skinned, black-haired people.  While the younger ones are starting to stripe their hair, Chinese have a difficult time making their hair light.  So you can imagine that my red and white hair was an uncommon sight to them.  On most outings I watched how they giggled, poked each other and turned to look.  It was an amusing part of my journey, except in Beijing when I was lost and alone.  Then I felt like a spectacle.  In any event we arrived in the midst of a five-day holiday, May Day.  Chinese tourists clamored to the city.  They walked in throngs, everywhere.  Traffic was amusing, especially at turn-abouts.  Cars, bicycles, motor scooters and pedestrians struggle for the right of way.  I saw no accidents but one couldn’t help but wonder how the chaos works, somehow it does.  They don’t have as many lights and the roads appear to have easy access and egress.  There are highways that run over the city everywhere.  I think that is one salvation.  We did a lot of driving on raised roads.  The longest we ever waited in traffic was once in Shanghai and one cab ride in Hong Kong for a construction tie-up. 

 

The most unusual sights as a first impression were the construction sites.  They were everywhere.  Every building site, maybe I’m repeating myself, is covered with what at first glance looks like green tarp for as high as the buildings go but it must be some kind of  “breathable” material.  Christo has nothing on these folks. When the site is at the excavation stage, they cover the ground level with wooden walls that are glued with posters of photos of happy Chinese people.  It’s nice to look at.  Another impressive thing is how clean it looks.  I know I’m repeating but clean and green is China. 

 

There is another thing that I haven't yet mentioned, and this is everywhere in China. It's about the bathrooms.  For safety, you're told to carry your own toilet paper.  You can purchase it(at Target for sure), a tightly rolled paper that is easy to carry in a purse or pocket.  It took us a while to catch on that most toilets have huge rolls of toilet paper as you enter the bathroom, it's not in the stalls, but sometimes it is in the stalls and sometimes there's none at all.   It became an adventure to go to the WC as they call it.  The toilets themselves are built into the ground, one step below what you might think of for a port-a-pottie.  Paper is thrown into a basket.  The sophistication of the plumbing determines the cleanliness, they do flush.  Most new public bathrooms have  some Western style toilets.  They're usually marked on the outside of the doors.  They are kept clean in most places by an attendant who follows you in as you leave the stall and mops the floor each and every time. It's rather nice.  This is a good place to stop the chapter.  I have a pottie call from writing about it.    

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

China Chapter Four

 

 

Chapter Four

 It must be obvious by now that China is not what I expected.  What I don’t know about are the unscrupulous behaviors of the manufacturing companies that make things for export to the U.S.    Perhaps they didn’t know about our laws, but the American contractors must know.  Perhaps they tried to get away with things.  I don’t know.  I do know that a huge issue for the populace in general is corruption.  It pervades in government and probably in business too.   It’s being addressed, but like all things in China, it must be an enormous job.  There will be stories yet to come from the earthquake disaster about such things.  I have empathy on so many of their issues because in some ways we do worse in our own country.  The last biggest disaster for example in New Orleans is something to be compared.  The Chinese soldiers were on the scene of the disaster within the shortest possible time.  When it became apparent that roads were broken, paratroopers were dropped in, helicopters were put into service and there were many people to help and as things moved forward they accepted expertise from any country willing to offer it.  Having Japan play an important technical roll in the survivorship of the victims was an enormous advance in humility from what I understand.   They still have resentment toward Japan since WWII.  And to think of it in a larger form, they put their people before anything else. 

 

That aside, the people themselves are sweet, cordial, clean, helpful, respectful and friendly.  They speak loud and in a tone that often seems tough or angry.  Without knowing the language it seems a little harsh even if the words are soft in pronunciation.  They appear full of emotion and allow themselves to show it.  I already defined the people in the service business as dedicated individuals.  They will do anything to make sure you are satisfied and content.  

 

One of the memorable things about China is how clean it is.  It is clean wherever you go.  It’s immaculate in fact.  There is no flying debris.  That’s something I’ve grown accustomed to here in Las Vegas.  Every spot of land is growing something green or green and colorful.  And it’s not helter-skelter.  Every inch is plotted and cared for.  It seems impossible but true.  Under every highway, viaduct, parkway and roadside there are flowers or plants growing.   In the countryside there is green everywhere.  It’s the greenest place I’ve ever seen.   The parks are grand places.  They are well used and purposeful for every age group.  For example, there is a section of apartments where many older people live.  The parks are developed for their health and enjoyment.  They play cards; they do ballroom and ethnic dancing every single day.  They make art, and do Tai Chi, there are choral groups, soloists, gamers of all sorts, group games where they physically kick a feathered weight from person to person something like badminton birdie using the ankle and can be played by two or around a circle of people.  On any given day the parks are crowded with people at play or in groups practicing silk twirling, balancing exercises and the like.  In fact, it’s interesting to note that the Chinese government has come to recognize that in order to keep Alzheimer’s at bay they encourage not only all the activities I mentioned including tennis, table tennis and more, they encourage card games and mah jongg.  While gambling is illegal throughout the Chinese mainland, and they do watch it somehow, seniors are allowed to play mah jongg for money.  They do this to keep them vital and their minds busy.  So over a certain age you can legally gamble.  People take their birds for walks and hang the cages in trees and they sing and whistle to them.

 

It’s easy to see the connection of people to nature in so many ways.  They revere rocks and deformed stones.  I think they are limestone, (the ones I saw) I forgot, but there are these huge boulders that get eaten through and are revered for their immense size and configuration.  Many public and private gardens have areas cordoned off with these rocks on pedestals in the same manner as we are used to seeing public sculptures displayed.  When touring mountainous areas the tour guides are always naming the mountainous terrain with names of serpents, princesses or animals as a point of interest butusually there is a story that highlights the reason for the naming.  I imagine it serves as a landmark also.  They believe symbolically that heaven is round and earth is square.  So if you see a round roof I imagine it’s a place to pray.  I may include a photo, which is Temple of Heaven.  Gardens are everywhere.  Every public place, no matter how remote or insignificant has gorgeous gardens.

 

I don’t think I mentioned the airports.  Even in Korea, the Seoul Airport was incredible.  They are all relatively new and are HUGE glass and marble buildings, even the ones that were not international were spacious.  They are sparkling clean.  They are well lit, spacious with free carts everywhere.  I don’t know if we have anything to match this in all of the US.  The international airports are mind-boggling.  Any and every designer shop is in the mall areas, which are adjacent to the gates and because of the immense size you can stroll up and down while waiting for you r plane.  The time of departure stamped on your ticket is the boarding time, not when the plane is due to leave.  I suppose they don’t have the kind of traffic we do yet but all flights left in a timely manner from the time the doors closed on the plane.  I noticed at one of the airports theyhad a section of gorgeous green plants with large leaves, common one that we see here, maybe 50 to 100 pots surrounding a section of seating. There was an attendant cleaning each leaf on each plant while we were walking through and I noticed that there were plants some much larger throughout the airport with shiny dark green leaves.  When I got back to the states, unfortunately LA Airport is in such disrepair and laid out so badly, it’s such a letdown to see it as the first sight.  I always thought of Las Vegas Airport as a rather cheerful place until I had to go through it on my return trip.  It made me feel so closed in and the carpet gave it a dingy feeling.  This was an unexpected negative surprise to my senses much as the cleanliness and beauty of China was a positive surprise to my senses.  The contrast cannot be easily forgotten.

 

 

 

 

Chapters Two and Three

Chapter Two

 China has never been on my agenga for places to see.  My attitude’s been marred by recent news reports about lead paint, tainted animal food, loss of jobs here and the like.  I shouldn’t neglect politics.  I inspect every food product.  I guess I was developing a strong predjudice.   My friend, Elena, and I often spoke of wanting to travel.  I told her if she ever wants to do a trip together I’m willing.  She mentioned China.  Her friends were going real cheap for a week, another friend had been there loved her trip, etc.   She really wanted to go to China.  I said” fine, let’s look into it.  Let’s get educated and go to a travel agent to see what they have to say and offer”.  We did , I talked to a couple of people who had been there and my excitement grew. Time was running out because she had her regularly planned trip to Argentina so we would have to leave and return in enough time for her to catch her breath and leave again.  Then there were the issues of visas and a couple of other issues.  That left us with a small window of time to travel so we had to decide once and for all.  We picked the tour that seemed the best for the money.  It was above our original budget but so much more was included.  We firmed up our decision.  We decided on the almost three week tour, after all why spend money to go so far and not see all the highlights of the country.  My mixed emotions became directed toward getting there in thebest way.  When I know I have to move on something I start immediately.

 

An overriding element for a few weeks had been that Elena expressed some difficulties between she and her significant other and wasn’t sure if she should go.  So it was hit and miss.  I had to wait it out with her.  They finally had a discussion about the trip and she said it wouldn’t be a problem.  Hearing that I overnighted the full cost of the trip and started on my personal journey of things to do such as getting a visa, changing the name on my passport, shopping and generally preparing all the things one does when going away for an extended period of time.  Elena sent her money too.  It didn’t take another twenty-four hours for her to call and say, guess what?  What?  It’s not working, I’m not going and I called and told them not to cash the check.  I was on the same roller coaster as they were on except I had to decide about going alone.  By now I was convinced it was a trip of a lifetime. It was going to cost another twenty-five percent for single accommodations.  I was anguished but said to myself “now or never” and went forward.  (By the way, Elena and Sam are fine at this writing.)  There were so many obstacles before my departure but I forged ahead anyway.  There was a mix-up with my passport and I was sure I’d be detained somewhere.  It was a rocky beginning and when those things I spoke of in Chapter One happened to me early on my trip I wondered if it was worth coming to China. 

 

Chapter Three

 

Airports!!!  NeedI say more?  Las Vegas to LA to Seoul to Shanghai.  Upon arrival in LA (not a nice airport) I get my two checked bags (allowed one in trip instructions) get them on a bus headed for the International airport  (under construction) in horrible condition, wait four hours (didn’t want to miss my connection) in miserable surroundings, to finally board a cheerful, bright, roomy plane filled with attendants that couldn’t do enough to please, each one more beautiful than the other.  The plane's interior and the uniforms were color coordinated,  beautiful aqua and cream colors.   On every seat were a few cellophane wrapped items, also color coordinated, a blanket, a pillow, a bottle of water and a gift kit filled with toothpaste, toothbrush, long soft socks, and an eyshield. The packaging of the small items was a little bag that you could wear around your neck to keep small items handy.  This was the beginning of a wonderful odyssey.   The food service on the plane was good, healthy, hot food served with wine, silverware and pleasant smiles.  The service was outstanding; they never walked but ran if you needed something.  They anticipated most of your needs. I met some tour travelers in line in LA; we hit it off with a few laughs eventually to meet up with the others who seemed pleasant also. 

 

The plane ride was an introduction as to how we would be treated throughout the tour.  Everywhere the service was outstanding even if they didn’t understand us they made every attempt to make things right.  Waitresses often brought something other than what was asked for, the hotel service people frequently didn’t understand a request, but always made good on their efforts.  The service was noticeably different than what we’ve grown to get used to here in the US.  It was a throwback to an era gone by in this country.   I realize that we were tourists, nevertheless, the society is much freer than ever and could get away with less.  From what I understand about Communism in Russia, people do or did less, not more than was asked of them.  I think the Asian culture is more polite and going the extra mile is something apparently different than Russia.  In contrast to that, in China they've developed certain habits that would seems rude.  For example, if you bump someone by accident you continue on your way without stopping.  It’s too crowded in many places for it not to happen so they ignore such minor events.  On the other hand if their job requires a service they do more than is expected.  Generally speaking if you have direct contact for any reason manners prevail.

 

Our Tour Director accompanied us throughout the country.  She was so outstanding that everyone overcompensated her above what was recommended.  We loved her.  She met all our needs, always one step ahead such as ordering special foods, wheelchairs if needed, finding a doctor, inquiring about our health including room visitation, always having enough exchange money on hand for those of us who were forgetful or too lazy to take care of it ourselves. In general always anticipating the next step.  There were many issues besides watching over us.   There were transfers, entry fees, luggage issues, four plane rides inside China, at least four forms of water carriers including the cruise and several trips from the boats to land excursions.  She was amazing. She had to coordinate all the local tour guides and buses, plane tickets and luggage deliveries multiple times. 

 

It should be obvious by now that we traveled to many cities, made a lot of stops, packed, unpacked and packed again over and over.  There is never a minute during the day to do too much thinking.  During our last stop, Hong Kong, we began to show our wear.  We were all on overload and slowing down by the minute.  There was an add-on excursion to Thailand that I did not do but some of the others booked it and were kind of sorry.  We were so ready for our departure.  It was sad though splitting up at the end.  We were split into three groups, west coast, east coast and Thailand.  We found ourselves running from gate to gate saying our last good-byes to what had become “family”.  We grew very fond of each other, warts and all.  I have a number of invitations to visit different parts of the country and Mexico.  Again here at the end I find I will need to start again about the tour through China. 

 

 

China in so many words.. Chapter One

 It’s difficult to recall not because time is passing but rather because we were on visual overload after a couple of days.  I’ll begin by getting the bad stuff out of the way then I’ll follow with some kind of narrative about the trip and somewhere in there will be my attitude about China, it’s people and it’s politics.  I have to write this in parts, so here goes.

 

The number one event, of course, was the earthquake.   However horrific we were spared most details.  The day went something like this:  we completed the Yangtze River Cruise by disembarking in Chongquing (ChunKing as it used to be called and was the capital city involved in WWII, suffered Japanese damage finally receiving our American aircraft for which the Chinese are still grateful).  We toured the lovely ancient city of about 3000 yrs. then headed for the airport to continue our China tour in Guilin, known for its incredible formations and foggy look.  We took a flight out of Chongquing about an hour before the disaster, which was close enough to receive some damage to the airport, and closed after our departure.  Because of our unbelievable schedule we stopped at the hotel to wash up and get on the waiting bus for a fabulous cave exploration.  While in the caves, two fellows at separate times pondered what would happen if there were an earthquake.  Little did we know it was happening as we walked the paths down there.  In Guilin, they say that they never had or felt an earthquake so we were totally unaware of the earthquake until we got back to the hotel to watch BBC or CNN before collapsing into bed.  We never really got the full impact until it was almost time to leave China, not forgetting to thank our lucky stars to be away from the disaster.  It never occurred to us that we were in danger. It wasn’t until we started getting messages and calls from loved ones that we felt the impact and made sure people knew we were safe from harm.  Now, after hearing various accounts of the widespread shaking that was felt from border to border and in other countries, I realize why folks in the US were so worried.  I apologize for not calling everyone I know.  Today after thousands of after shocks, a big one hit that rocked buildings in Beijing.

 

The most important disasters to me however were the ones that befell me!!  I got lost in Tainimen Square in Beijing. Day 3.  We left the tour bus for a quick 20 minute walk (free time) around the square, a space like nothing you’ve seen before, adapted from the Kremlin I think.   I wasn’t keen to walk the distance and asked if anyone wanted to return to the bus with me.  There were no takers so I went along with crowd, which I already had followed from the bus to the square like a lemming, not watching where I was.   We gathered inside and talked about the twenty minutes time we had to meet.   Everyone disbursed with their own agenda so I drifted to the statuary and flowered areas to take some photos.  Prior to leaving the bus it was suggested to take just a camera since it was such a short excursion with the assurance that our valuables will be safe with the driver.  I walked and sat down in a garden spot and noticed that the twenty minute time was approaching so I proceeded to our gathering spot as we have grown accustomed to doing and waited for the others to return.  Usually Jo, our tour director, is waiting before we arrive but she wasn’t there yet.  I waited and spotted a couple from the tour hurrying out the gate but I didn’t want to leave without the others.  Some among us had a tendency to wander and be waited for and I had already established my tardiness after breakfast the day before so I was going to be prompt and obedient.  I waited and waited and nobody showed up since that couple.  It was at least a half hour by now, not the twenty minutes, and I was getting nervous.  I was the only white face in the place by now and my red hair had already made me conspicuous everywhere else.  I know because there were always giggles, turn-arounds and the like wherever I went as if the white face isn’t enough.  I paced the fence near our entry searching as far as I could see for a familiar face.  There were none, in fact, the dinner hour was approaching and the place was clearing out.  I didn’t know if they close the gates or what.  I had no phone, no purse, no ID, none of the paperwork that I never fail to carry and I didn’t even know the name of the hotel that we had just registered in.  It was obvious that everyone was gone and I was verrry alone, alone in a foreign country where nobody speaks English (hardly anyone) and getting frightened at the thought that I didn’t know what to tell anyone even if they could speak English.  I had no idea which street the bus was parked because I was too busy not paying attention.  I became more agitated by the moment.  It wasn’t dark but not light anymore.  I was getting the chills from nerves.  I went to the guard, soldier or policeman, not sure what he was, and asked if he spoke English and of course he knew a couple of cursory words but didn’t understand a word when I asked if he could call his station to find an English speaking person.  He was able to put his arm on my shoulder and say “I take care you” but it only made me feel worse at the moment.  He took out a phone and called someone but no results and no comments passed between us.  It was getting dark and I had to pee too.  I was crying and pacing around him, by now it was at least a half hour past our meeting time.  Suddenly I saw a white face hurry through the gate and realized it was one of my tour mates who volunteered to look for me and sent the others on their way.  I almost collapsed when I saw him.  I thanked the “cop soldier” and we stood there for a second, Nigel and I, recapping what happened and he said, “Would you mind staying another forty minutes, I want to see the changing of the guard.”  I almost fainted at the idea of spending another minute there and profusely refused so we somehow made our way across the boulevard to a busy corner where we might catch a taxi.  By then I was about to burst and had to pee so we found this dimly lit joint and I went to one of the cruddy public toilets with the bowl built into the ground.  More on that later.  Luckily I had a Kleenex in my pocket.  After my second relief we were looking for a place to hail a cab and Nigel asked if I would mind taking a taxi by myself.  I looked at him with disdain by now and said, “I have no money, and I don’t know the name of the hotel or where it is.”  He showed his disappointment but went along with me to find a cab.  While on this corner another fellow from our troop yelled my name in his Russian accent.  We had gotten along well prior to this event.  He implored the guide to bring the bus to look for me because he wasn’t sure if Nigel found me.  I was so relieved once again.  I turned around to Nigel and said, “Well, you can go now.”  He said, “Ok, will you guys tell my wife what I’m doing?”  And away went Nigel.  My return to the bus was embarrassing, humiliating and I had to listen to all the stories about how worried everyone was.  They were so kind while I was not receptive because I knew a few must have resented the extra hour they had to sit on the bus.  I broke down and cried and thanked whomever I could.

 

What I left out about being tardy once already was that I thought the bus was leaving one half hour later in the morning than it was actually scheduled for so by the time I came down for a quick breakfast everyone was on the bus, the last of the crowd was leaving the coffee shop and I told them I was going to grab something real fast to take with me but was late nevertheless.  What actually happened was that I couldn’t find one thing that wasn’t hot or drippy in my quick run through. Aha, I saw loads of fresh fruit in big bowls above the food and had to lift myself high to reach in, they were half gone.  I took an apple and grabbed a couple of mini croissants and off I ran.  Everyone was seated and waiting, not a word was said.  They were patient.  I’m sitting on the bus anxious to eat that apple and dry stuff.  I ate the rolls and bit into the apple...lo and behold it was a plastic apple!  I told those sitting near me and word spread like wild fire.  Everyone thought it was hysterical, I was more hungry by the minute looking at that lucious apple..  There were enough offers of snacks to keep me full.   It was after that that I got lost.  That’s the rest of this story.  So my reputation as being a ditz was well established.

 

The end of the tale is that my immune system broke down quickly from the trauma of getting lost and by the next morning I was not well.  That’s when I had to endure all the rescue stories and the heroics of those who insisted I not be left behind etc.  And I was feeling sick.  I apologized for remaining quiet in my solitude and they were respectful with many kind words.  The next day I got up in front of the bus and thanked everyone for their patience and concern and that I felt like they were all one loving Buddha who were comforting me and it was good.  I got sick with what ended up like a chronic cigarette cough, again kind of embarrassing and I also got a rash, which three other women had developed.  The rashes were on our legs.  Mine was the worst looking, flaming red; I had swollen feet and got worried.  I had visions of being quarantined at an airport somewhere so I had a doctor come to the hotel.  She came with a nurse at her side and neither spoke English so the hotel concierge accompanied them.  I have a full written report in Chinese that I’ll have interpreted one day.  She examined my leg over and over and could not reach a conclusion and suggested I go to a hospital.  This further freaked me out.  I didn’t want to raise any flags during my travels and the others did not want to go to the hospital.   I analyzed my own conclusions that it must be the water, stopped bathing, cleaned the legs with an antiseptic after every shower and eventually it cleared but so did everyone else’s.  ????

 

This was the downside being alone (nobody to bounce off my anxieties) otherwise I enjoyed the privacy.   Above was the worst of my travel experiences.  The good so outweighed the bad that there was no time to think about these issues for long.