It’s difficult to recall not because time is passing but rather because we were on visual overload after a couple of days. I’ll begin by getting the bad stuff out of the way then I’ll follow with some kind of narrative about the trip and somewhere in there will be my attitude about China, it’s people and it’s politics. I have to write this in parts, so here goes.
The number one event, of course, was the earthquake. However horrific we were spared most details. The day went something like this: we completed the Yangtze River Cruise by disembarking in Chongquing (ChunKing as it used to be called and was the capital city involved in WWII, suffered Japanese damage finally receiving our American aircraft for which the Chinese are still grateful). We toured the lovely ancient city of about 3000 yrs. then headed for the airport to continue our China tour in Guilin, known for its incredible formations and foggy look. We took a flight out of Chongquing about an hour before the disaster, which was close enough to receive some damage to the airport, and closed after our departure. Because of our unbelievable schedule we stopped at the hotel to wash up and get on the waiting bus for a fabulous cave exploration. While in the caves, two fellows at separate times pondered what would happen if there were an earthquake. Little did we know it was happening as we walked the paths down there. In Guilin, they say that they never had or felt an earthquake so we were totally unaware of the earthquake until we got back to the hotel to watch BBC or CNN before collapsing into bed. We never really got the full impact until it was almost time to leave China, not forgetting to thank our lucky stars to be away from the disaster. It never occurred to us that we were in danger. It wasn’t until we started getting messages and calls from loved ones that we felt the impact and made sure people knew we were safe from harm. Now, after hearing various accounts of the widespread shaking that was felt from border to border and in other countries, I realize why folks in the US were so worried. I apologize for not calling everyone I know. Today after thousands of after shocks, a big one hit that rocked buildings in Beijing.
The most important disasters to me however were the ones that befell me!! I got lost in Tainimen Square in Beijing. Day 3. We left the tour bus for a quick 20 minute walk (free time) around the square, a space like nothing you’ve seen before, adapted from the Kremlin I think. I wasn’t keen to walk the distance and asked if anyone wanted to return to the bus with me. There were no takers so I went along with crowd, which I already had followed from the bus to the square like a lemming, not watching where I was. We gathered inside and talked about the twenty minutes time we had to meet. Everyone disbursed with their own agenda so I drifted to the statuary and flowered areas to take some photos. Prior to leaving the bus it was suggested to take just a camera since it was such a short excursion with the assurance that our valuables will be safe with the driver. I walked and sat down in a garden spot and noticed that the twenty minute time was approaching so I proceeded to our gathering spot as we have grown accustomed to doing and waited for the others to return. Usually Jo, our tour director, is waiting before we arrive but she wasn’t there yet. I waited and spotted a couple from the tour hurrying out the gate but I didn’t want to leave without the others. Some among us had a tendency to wander and be waited for and I had already established my tardiness after breakfast the day before so I was going to be prompt and obedient. I waited and waited and nobody showed up since that couple. It was at least a half hour by now, not the twenty minutes, and I was getting nervous. I was the only white face in the place by now and my red hair had already made me conspicuous everywhere else. I know because there were always giggles, turn-arounds and the like wherever I went as if the white face isn’t enough. I paced the fence near our entry searching as far as I could see for a familiar face. There were none, in fact, the dinner hour was approaching and the place was clearing out. I didn’t know if they close the gates or what. I had no phone, no purse, no ID, none of the paperwork that I never fail to carry and I didn’t even know the name of the hotel that we had just registered in. It was obvious that everyone was gone and I was verrry alone, alone in a foreign country where nobody speaks English (hardly anyone) and getting frightened at the thought that I didn’t know what to tell anyone even if they could speak English. I had no idea which street the bus was parked because I was too busy not paying attention. I became more agitated by the moment. It wasn’t dark but not light anymore. I was getting the chills from nerves. I went to the guard, soldier or policeman, not sure what he was, and asked if he spoke English and of course he knew a couple of cursory words but didn’t understand a word when I asked if he could call his station to find an English speaking person. He was able to put his arm on my shoulder and say “I take care you” but it only made me feel worse at the moment. He took out a phone and called someone but no results and no comments passed between us. It was getting dark and I had to pee too. I was crying and pacing around him, by now it was at least a half hour past our meeting time. Suddenly I saw a white face hurry through the gate and realized it was one of my tour mates who volunteered to look for me and sent the others on their way. I almost collapsed when I saw him. I thanked the “cop soldier” and we stood there for a second, Nigel and I, recapping what happened and he said, “Would you mind staying another forty minutes, I want to see the changing of the guard.” I almost fainted at the idea of spending another minute there and profusely refused so we somehow made our way across the boulevard to a busy corner where we might catch a taxi. By then I was about to burst and had to pee so we found this dimly lit joint and I went to one of the cruddy public toilets with the bowl built into the ground. More on that later. Luckily I had a Kleenex in my pocket. After my second relief we were looking for a place to hail a cab and Nigel asked if I would mind taking a taxi by myself. I looked at him with disdain by now and said, “I have no money, and I don’t know the name of the hotel or where it is.” He showed his disappointment but went along with me to find a cab. While on this corner another fellow from our troop yelled my name in his Russian accent. We had gotten along well prior to this event. He implored the guide to bring the bus to look for me because he wasn’t sure if Nigel found me. I was so relieved once again. I turned around to Nigel and said, “Well, you can go now.” He said, “Ok, will you guys tell my wife what I’m doing?” And away went Nigel. My return to the bus was embarrassing, humiliating and I had to listen to all the stories about how worried everyone was. They were so kind while I was not receptive because I knew a few must have resented the extra hour they had to sit on the bus. I broke down and cried and thanked whomever I could.
What I left out about being tardy once already was that I thought the bus was leaving one half hour later in the morning than it was actually scheduled for so by the time I came down for a quick breakfast everyone was on the bus, the last of the crowd was leaving the coffee shop and I told them I was going to grab something real fast to take with me but was late nevertheless. What actually happened was that I couldn’t find one thing that wasn’t hot or drippy in my quick run through. Aha, I saw loads of fresh fruit in big bowls above the food and had to lift myself high to reach in, they were half gone. I took an apple and grabbed a couple of mini croissants and off I ran. Everyone was seated and waiting, not a word was said. They were patient. I’m sitting on the bus anxious to eat that apple and dry stuff. I ate the rolls and bit into the apple...lo and behold it was a plastic apple! I told those sitting near me and word spread like wild fire. Everyone thought it was hysterical, I was more hungry by the minute looking at that lucious apple.. There were enough offers of snacks to keep me full. It was after that that I got lost. That’s the rest of this story. So my reputation as being a ditz was well established.
The end of the tale is that my immune system broke down quickly from the trauma of getting lost and by the next morning I was not well. That’s when I had to endure all the rescue stories and the heroics of those who insisted I not be left behind etc. And I was feeling sick. I apologized for remaining quiet in my solitude and they were respectful with many kind words. The next day I got up in front of the bus and thanked everyone for their patience and concern and that I felt like they were all one loving Buddha who were comforting me and it was good. I got sick with what ended up like a chronic cigarette cough, again kind of embarrassing and I also got a rash, which three other women had developed. The rashes were on our legs. Mine was the worst looking, flaming red; I had swollen feet and got worried. I had visions of being quarantined at an airport somewhere so I had a doctor come to the hotel. She came with a nurse at her side and neither spoke English so the hotel concierge accompanied them. I have a full written report in Chinese that I’ll have interpreted one day. She examined my leg over and over and could not reach a conclusion and suggested I go to a hospital. This further freaked me out. I didn’t want to raise any flags during my travels and the others did not want to go to the hospital. I analyzed my own conclusions that it must be the water, stopped bathing, cleaned the legs with an antiseptic after every shower and eventually it cleared but so did everyone else’s. ????
This was the downside being alone (nobody to bounce off my anxieties) otherwise I enjoyed the privacy. Above was the worst of my travel experiences. The good so outweighed the bad that there was no time to think about these issues for long.
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